First Vegamatrix grow looking really bad, please help?

This topic contains 34 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  LightSpeedGrows 10 years ago.

Home Forums Cannabis Cultivation Indoor Growing First Vegamatrix grow looking really bad, please help?

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  • #41264

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    I asked Kyle directly on facebook but I haven’t heard back and things are looking worse by the day so I figured I’d try here too.  I’m in week five of vegetative growth, about 41 days from seed. I’m growing a strain that I have experience with. I’m on week four of the feeding schedule from Vegamatrix. I topped them and then transplanted them from small square pots into the large 5 gallon deals at about week three and began foliar feeding twice weekly, and growth looked great until this week. I’m in coco and perlite with R/O water in a non-sealed room with filtered/scrubbed air under two lumigrow 650 LED lights. Temps at 75 degrees, RH 50-65%.

    At first, everything looked great! I was really impressed with the vigor and health of the grow with the nutrients. Everything was lush and deep green and healthy. Then around week four, day 35, things started to go south. New growth began to look yellow and leaves started to look twisted, thin, and mutated in some areas. I suspect that I topped too close and the first leaves to form from the topped areas are the ones that look the worst, so that may not be related. Other new leaves are twisting and gnarled now too. Purple stems on fan leaves and purple streaks on meristem. Rust colored spots and burn holes appearing in leaves. Largest fan leaves still looking pretty dark green and healthy, but some spots and holes moving to them too. I have not fed them pure water and prime zyme since transplanting, and I have not been PH’ing my solution, because I believed it would be unnecessary with the vegamatrix. My PH has been consistently around 6.3, and I suspect a deficiency or a lockout. Because I transplanted directly into such large pots, my medium hasn’t had a chance to actually dry out yet. At week three, I charged the coco with the week 3 solution and began foliar feeding with 2ml/gal amp-it, non-pH adjusted.

    At week four, I began to see signs of the problems I mentioned above. At week four, I fed 10ml/gal grow, 5ml bloom, 5ml boost, 10ml prime, 2ml amp it. Now as I’m moving into week five, I think the girls need some help. Should I flush them and start feeding a pH adjusted solution and foliar feed? What is the ideal pH range for foliar feeding with the amp it? I would love some help on this issue. I grow for AIDS and Cancer and Epilepsy patients and people who are immunocomprimised, so I’d love to have these plants looking a lot healthier than they are right now.

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    #41270

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    More pictures. So yellow and gnarled. The gnarled leaves and rust colored spots and what look like burn marks worry me the most. I really hope you guys can help. They look like I’ve been treating them terribly and they aren’t happy. I’ve seen what vegamatrix is supposed to look like, and I’m pretty frustrated that this is my first experience with it.

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    #41273

    Driverinthedank
    Participant

    well I’m not the expert but here what i think with what i know. first off cut your amp it from 2 ml a gallon to 1 ml a gallon. be sure to use your microbes once a week or every other week. next your ph is to high. you want ph for coco and soil around 5.5-6.0 with 5.5-5.7 being best. my ph is at 5.4 after i mix it up. and i do not adjust. when people use a ph of 6.3 or higher up to seven, what happens is the soil ph rises and eventually causes issues. next problem is not user if you use 5 gallons all the time but it really a waste for indoor gardening. plants don’t even come close to using all that space. you want a pot size that will dry in 3 – 4 days. also when transplanting you want to water the pot before transferring and transfer into dry soil. do not water until leaves droop, when that happens water about half as normal so the roots can move through the dirt looking for moisture. so i mention this, because it looks like your starting to get deficiency from too much water causing a root lock up with lack of oxygen. no more spraying until soil drys. when soil drys give half strength or plain water.  also while plants can grow in ph of 5.5-7.0. they can really only take a few weeks of  waterings of 6.5-7.0. i also suggest inly foliar feeding with hard and quick. amp it is a microflora or something like that. i forget exactly. kyle explains it on an interview and I’m sure lightspeed can help you on that info. otherwise don’t panic too much, looks not to bad.  also not sure if you did same day, but topping and transplanting should be done on separate days in order not to stress plant to much.

    #41275

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    Thank you SO MUCH.

    #41276

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    Yeah, kyle let me know about the amp-it. I’m using R/O, so I figured I’d aim for middle of the road but it’s clearly too much. Thanks for the tip on the five gals. Think I’ll consider going back to three next time and run more plants. This strain got huge last time, I run perpetual and veg long. By week four into flower they were drinking every day. I’ve a spinal deformity and recently sustained a bad injury, watering by hand daily can be really painful and tedious. Thought I’d go bigger, veg longer, transplant once and keep my plant number in compliance. But you’re right, they aren’t even close to drying between feedings yet.

    So I’m due for a flush. Kyle said to cut the amp it out for a couple weeks and feed at week five, and I’ll pick up some veganic tea. Liked it last time! Also, I am going to feed at 5.7-5.8. My first thought was lockout.

    #41277

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    Also, I don’t know if there was any confusion about this but I’m definitely not foliar feeding with amp-it. Only using 5ml/gal hard and quick but I think I’m going to ease up until they’re looking better.

    #41278

    Colorado Kid
    Participant

    I had some of this going on in my grow, I had to stop spraying, and let my pots dry out, and feed just plain water. Started feeding 10 ml grow, 5 ml bloom, 7 ml boost, 1o ml prymezyme, every other feeding 1.75 ml, and OG Tea all per gallon. If my run off ppm’s are over 1000 in veg, I plain water. Also, I wasn’t allowing my pots to dry out enough, they were lighter than after watering, but ther was a whole other level beyond that, I’m figuring that out now.

    #41279

    Colorado Kid
    Participant

    Every other feeding 1.75 ml of amp it, I also feed 5 ml Pro-Tek, but you don’t have to, if you’re all in. I only plain water feed once, before going back on nutes. Driverinthedank,is a smart guy, he’s helped me a lot on this grow.

    #41280

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    <span style=”color: #000000; font-family: Roboto, ‘Droid Sans’, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px;”>Should I flush with plain water and prime zyme at 5.8 and then wait till they dry for my next feeding or flush and then feed immediately?</span><br style=”color: #000000; font-family: Roboto, ‘Droid Sans’, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px;” /><br style=”color: #000000; font-family: Roboto, ‘Droid Sans’, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px;” /><span style=”color: #000000; font-family: Roboto, ‘Droid Sans’, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px;”>What formula should I feed with? Is 10ml grow, 5ml bloom, 7ml boost and 10, maybe 15 ml prime zyme and no amp-it okay? They are due to start feeding at week five. </span>

    #41281

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    Ugh sorry about that last post being wonky. I am working from my phone these days.

    I have a few more questions. Should I flush with plain water and prime zyme at 5.8 and then wait till they dry for my next feeding or flush and then feed immediately?

    What formula should I feed with? Is 10ml grow, 5ml bloom, 7ml boost and maybe 10, maybe 15 prime zyme and no amp-it okay? They were due for a feeding and ready to start week five.

    #41284

    Driverinthedank
    Participant

    I use 10 ml of grow, 5 ml of bloom and boost, 10 ml of zym and 1 ml of amp it per gallon for a veg plant that has three internodes or more. I personally feed about three times, then give plain water then half dose then start cycle again. I also inter switch the microbes each watering. And I use the og tea tsp per gal, og web star tsp per gal, and the og pure tsp per gal, switched out every watering so the plants are always getting a good dose of different stuff.

    As far as your issue with next watering, I know the urge to fix now is strong young sky walker, but it is best to let dry out, water with plain water maybe one feeding then half dose till you see recovery with normal yellowing from nitrogen def. on the older big leaves, once you see this I would start giving full dose. Also I would give maybe two solo cups worth of water per watering for the first two weeks after transplant. Then give three depending on how fast they drink. When you plant is having to be fed every 4 ish day in veg using 4-5 solo cups worth of water I would say you could start to flower. Also as I’ve said before, indoor a 3 gallon is best and a root maker is the best I think, I have compared to other pots and 5 gallon air pots and it out performs easily. And for indoors you want plant 3-5 feet high so a 3 gallon is perfect for that. With 5 gallon you will need to grow long and tie down a lot to get good yield. You have to consider a 1 k light has 4 ish feet of penetration. So if your plant if 4 feet high you will get nice even bud structure all around etc. just do a 3 gal with more branching and tie down where all bud sites are getting light during flower.

    #41290

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    Thank you so much. This is all so helpful. They are almost dry at this point, probably flush in the next day or two. They are getting big and definitely still growing, so I’m not as worried now as I was. I really like your approach to feeding. I’m going to give that a try next time around. I know it’s going to take a good while to get my new setup dialed in, especially because I’m using adjustable LED arrays instead of HPS like I started with. All of this advice is immensely valuable.

     

    When you say a root maker, what do you mean? A rooting hormone/blend/nutrien/tea kind of deal or a specific kind of device or pot?

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    Driver, Wouldn’t happen to be in LA would you?

    #41291

    Colorado Kid
    Participant

    Rootmaker’s are a type of pot, they are what I will be flowering in this go around. Driver also turned me on to them. They are a rigid plastic pot with air holes that help air prune roots as they grow down through the soil. I haven’t transplanted my plants into them yet thinking in about 10-14 days.

    #41292

    Colorado Kid
    Participant

    And I think I will be incorporating that half strength feed after the plain water feed into my schedule. Good call on that one.

    #41293

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    My runoff pH was about 7.3-7.5. I poured five gallons of 5.8 pH r/O and prime zyme through each pot, which is closer to three and a half, maybe four gallons actually now that I see them beside my five gallon bucket. The runoff is still 7.3 should I keep flushing or is coco runoff not really accurate? I keep reading something about slurry.

    #41294

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    Also I’m curious. I’ve read dozens of tutorials on how to fix a lockout like this. Half of them say a flush with just pH adjusted water and the other say a half strength nutrient solution. If the plants are already starving for nutrients because they’re locked out, doesn’t it make sense to give them a solution rather than water? Or do they need the water to “unlocked”

    <span style=”line-height: 1.5;”> </span>

    I flushed three plants today and tore through all my prime zyme and my back injury is killing me. I had to stop working and probably won’t be able to do anything for the rest of the day. This sucks. Vegamatrix should seriously consider revising the statement on the feeding schedule about seldom requiring pH adjustment. It’s very misleading.

    #41295

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    And fwiw, here’s a great thread on runoff and feeding in coco. I found this helpful.

    https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=234943

    #41296

    Driverinthedank
    Participant

    well. first off when i do a rinse or a flush, i use plain water. nothing else, no enzymes. but thats me. as far as ph run off from the pot is not accurate at all. that is really just a b.s technique that somebody came up with to sell magazines. i suggest getting a soil ph probe that will tell you ph of soil or coco properly. as far as a nutrient lock out from over watering, this will generally correct itself after drying out and being watered lightly for a couple feedings. a moisture nutrient lockout is different than a out of balance or over fertilizing issue. the issue people have is determining the moisture caused or the imbalance cause. generally people assume imbalance and start trying to correct then it all goes to crap after that shortly after. when your plants suffer from to much moisture from planting in top big of pot, i suggest letting dry and giving about a solo cup or two worth of water and build up after plant has recovered. if I’m reading right, you saturated your soil again to flush it, but it just got done drying out, i think your going to make even worse. you can get those 5 gallons so wet that a plant may never recover before it dries again. i have seen this personally.

    what they claim on package should be changed, i agree, simply because there are millions of counties in america and that means millions of types of water. just because someone filters or r.o.’s the water, doesn’t mean they are all at the same starting point.

    #41297

    Colorado Kid
    Participant

    I had to let some of my plants dry out for 12 days, from oversized plant potting. After You let them dry out all the way it will cause the roots to expand if you let them recover, they will start drinking much faster. This grow started completely different for me than last grow. It was much smoother last go, I’m finally getting back on schedule with help from Driver.

    #41298

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    Yeah, I flushed it them. I got to three of them today. I’m going to try a few different things. Kyle told me to flush them with pH’d solution and Prime Zyme. I think they’re big enough to drink what I gave them in 4 or 5 days in this heat. They were totally dry and showing signs of deficiency but didn’t look over watered so I suppose I didn’t notice until problems started showing. It’s been three weeks since the transplant, and they are much bigger, but there is a lot of merit to what you’ve said and I’m certain that you’re right. I think that my problem was a little bit of both pH being too high and too much amp-it and the size of the pots at first. I’m about to go check on them now, and I’ll keep with regular updates.

    <span style=”line-height: 1.5;”> </span>

     

    #41299

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    An interesting side note though. I ran two strains last time, a wonky pheno of Humboldt Seeds Blue Dream that made a really lucid sort of high, quite different from the others in the pack, and 303 seeds meltdown, which is (bubblegum x blueberry) + z7 from cbd crew. True to one of my affirmations, “the seeds of my next work of art lie in the imperfections of the last,” I think a tiny fuck up leaving the tent unzipped hermied one strain and pollinated the other. The lucid dream may have crossed with the meltdown, which is one of the best cbd meds I’ve ever had.

    Out of all the seeds I popped this time, that particular one and a cannabis cup winning bag seed from a breeder here in LA with four cup winning parents are the strongest, totally unphazed by my feeding mistake. Cross fingers crossed for me that they’re female.

     

    #41300

    Colorado Kid
    Participant

    You gotta love the cup winning bag seeds. I got one from the only strain from the Denver area, to place two years in a row. C99 x The White. I’m gonna wait until I’m set up for clones, and know I’ll be growing perpetual. I’m shutting down after this grow, I’m headed back to work.

    #41301

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    Things seem a little better since the flush. They’re still growing, but I may lose one of them. Installed tables and a drain in my flood tray and now flushing is a breeze. Letting the ones in the smaller pots dry out. Letting them dry out seems to have really increased the root mass. They’re drinking much faster. Hoping to resume feeding this weekend and get back on track.

    #41375

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    Just popping in with an update!
    After drying, flushing, allowing the plants to dry a second time, and tweaking my setup a bit for better drainage, the root mass of these plants has grown right up to the surface of the medium looking for moisture. Needless to say, the length of time it took for these big pots to dry equated to some pretty serious deficiencies showing up, some leaves dying back due to the lockout, and you can imagine some pretty sick looking plants. But there’s hope! New growth is looking green again, and some of the less affected leaves are really starting to perk up and get big. I fed them at week two, trying to ease them back into full strength feeding before tying or training them again. I’m going to give them longer in veg to recover before I decide to flower them.

    Now the plants that were kept in the three gallon containers have caught up, and they look PERFECT. I can’t believe how lush and vigorous they are. Most of the plants are showing female preflowers, which is very exciting considering a few of them are bag seed from really rare top shelf stuff from the research facility I provide meds for.

    Thanks so much for all the help and guidance, Kyle, Driver, and Colorado Kid. Here’s a pic of the Lucid Dream I harvested last time.

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    #41377

    Colorado Kid
    Participant

    That’s a very tastey looking bud. My grow seems to be about 1 month from starting in large pots too early. It’s a common mistake, I should be on target to flower at the end of the month. Love hearing of your plant’s turn around. Good luck growing.

    #41397

    MeganTron
    Participant

    I have a question on this matter because I’ve seen the debate of growers drying out their coco vs keeping it damp. I was under the impression that coco is a hydro medium and is suppose to be damp/watered everyday and sometimes twice a day because no matter how much water you give coco it still holds 30% oxygen and is virtually impossible to overwater or drown roots. Coco holds on to potassium so when you do dry out coco you get a potassium build up and dry pockets which lead to salt build up. What’s your opinions on this?

    #41402

    Driverinthedank
    Participant

    MT, coco is a type of hydro medium. however when using coco in a container and using as a replacement for soil, then it becomes a soilless soil medium. this means that it will give you growth rates and yields similar to hydroponic but with the safety and insurance and ease of using soil. so i don’t know what people are doing when they are keeping there coco moist, but when i do that, plants turn to shit. every time i go out of town and water heavy, when i come back, plants have noticeable bad differences. so coco can get suffocated.

    first off, veganic growing has little to no salt build up. when watering soil and cannabis especially, it prefers a dry to moist soil. when coco is saturated this is not the what canna thrives in. when someone waters, the water flows down pretty much in the same areas time after time. salt build up is more in a  soil or half and half mixes not coco. generally when using vegan nutrients with coco, the plants will use whatever given to them. most people are probably getting what looks like build up issues from over watering.

    #41403

    Colorado Kid
    Participant

    So I heard all this same stuff, can’t get it too wet, water with no run off, water up to 4 times a day, blah, blah.

    First, there is some truth to this, but only a little, and only if you do it the right way. And only if you’re using VegaMatrix 2.0, which isn’t out yet.

    People who do this have an aerated reservoir, on a timer system, when they say water/feed they are feeding at very low ppm’s, and the plants get very little actual water per feeding. The coco is always just above the dry level.

    There is a University of Florida study to confirm that this method works, but you have to get every thing right, you have to dial in the waterings to replace only what was removed.

    #41404

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    Juiced this fan leaf from my LA Cherry this morning.

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    #41406

    MeganTron
    Participant

    Thanks guys @Driver for the response. I’ve seen it work under the circumstance that they give small amounts of water more often and I guess I didn’t mean 100% coco drenched but with perlite and moist-ish medium like @ColoradoKid was discussing but adds extra attention to the garden when hand watering and not everyone has that kind of time.

    Vegamatrix 2.0 looking forward to that.

    Nice big fans looking good. Nice to see some pics Malu.

    I’m growing some Wappa, White Widow, GDP, tomatoes, and basil atm with promix + Vegamatrix.

    1 <3

    #41408

    Colorado Kid
    Participant

    Yeah I only got half this information from forums my first grow,  and almost killed my plants. I was feeding normal ppm’s, watering to near saturation but no runoff, was using hydro nutes, got salt build up pretty quick, was near/and in some cases had root rot. It was horrible, plants had the angry claw but we’re intensely dark green, and purple stems.

    #41409

    Colorado Kid
    Participant

    2.0 is the hydroponic formulation, not sure on that drop date. I hoping that the bloom booster for the current line comes out soon.

    #41412

    Driverinthedank
    Participant

    the only way to constantly feed and water coco is with a drip system or a wick system, both which can be used as for soil application as well. peat moss and coco are very similar and both will get water lock if watered to much. the only people who are watering coco everyday are using 80% perlite and 2-% coco allowing proper drying day to day. there is no way to constantly water a medium that hold 20x more water than soil. when coco expands with water you can see it swell up getting tighter together, this is why its almost a must to use perlite with coco. even using oxygenated water is not enough. i challenge anyone to water full amount everyday with runoff each time. i promise your plants will be dead in 3-4 weeks if not sooner. coco in a pot has to be treated just like soil. even the vegamatrix 2.0, that will be designed for true hydroponics. coco in pots is not hydroponic per say, its a type of hydro growing that is treated like soil. my understanding vegamatrix 2.0 is for dwc, flood and drain, ebb and flow, etc.

    also checking ppm is not necessary unless using homemade compost teas or doing hydroponic. i have checked ppm level maybe 6 times in 16 years.

    angry claw is caused from too much nitrogen generally and is why the plants were a super dark green. too much moisture can cause all problems depending on which line used.

    i use ancient forest, perlite, worm castings and coco for a mix, i alway have to let dry completely or yellowing etc will begin.

    #41414

    Malu_fizzgig
    Participant

    I’m ready for 2.0. I’ve got a bad back, would love to be able to use a large reservoir to drip feed on a timer rather than having to premix in five gallon buckets and lug that shit from the kitchen to the garden. In fact, I’m going with a reservoir and drip feed anyway just so I can do automated feedings. Fill the amount I need by turning on the faucet, mix in my nutrients, adjust pH once rather than three to five times for that many buckets, and flip the switch rather than lug them all over and water them by hand.

     

    Yes, you can over water coco. If your root mass isn’t big enough to drink up all that water or the pot isn’t small enough to dry out in about four to five days my experience has been symptoms of overwatering present. I’ve had to back off the nitrogen a bit with mine, a few blades on some of the leaves on the plants in smaller pots are clawing and they’re getting pretty deep green. It’s no big deal, just adjust to what the plant needs.

    #41431

    LightSpeedGrows
    Keymaster

    Hello Malu fizzgig,

    Welcome and it looks like Driver and the Kid have been giving you some great advice! I also can’t wait for 2.0 and with the way Vegamatrix is now you can mix up a large reservoir and feed your plants with a pump and drip stakes, but you can only mix what you are going to need for your feedings over a 12-24hour period i have a auto feed that I set up that i do that with and it works great!

    As always LightSpeedGrows,

    Have a great growing day with a feel good vibe!

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