This topic contains 111 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by Personal Lux 6 years, 9 months ago.
so im curious of how exactly to “complete” the biocanna line for future use in my medical garden. Bio-vega, Bio-flores, and bioboost, along with cannazyme, and rhizotonic..and ill throw in the OG tea every third watering seems like a pretty tight system already. but what else will i need? looking for experienced adivce as far as compatible root innoculant series.(great white, liquid orca, subcultures, etc. humic/fulvic acids, micronutrients treatment, or any other diversities that have proven needed or effect with this line. im ready to get away from GENERAL ORGANICS until kushman can get his line going!!! bring on the knowledge and experience = )
Also would like like to note natures nectar series for n-p-k adjustments? but are there micronutrient additives vegan organic?
Natures Nectar makes Organa-Add, an organic micro-nutrient supplement. The GREAT thing about Veganic cultivation in soilless mediums is that nearly everything is comapatible with each other. The main thing to watch out for is duplicating amendments. Using a root stimulant made from ascophylum nodosum(seaweed) is a good idea. So is Humic and fulvic Acids. Humic helps condition soil to release nutrients once they are applied. Fulvic helps facilitate the nutrients into the plants. I like Safer Gro’s Humax http://safergro.com/brochures/sg_humax_flyer.pdf as it’s effective and economical. For fulvic however, I like Bio Ag http://safergro.com/brochures/sg_humax_flyer.pdf It’s a little pricey but you only have to use it at high dosage during heavy feeding.
im deffinatly going to take a test run of the humic, and fulvic products because diamond black just doesnt cut it for me. the OGtea seems great and EASY i had to put in 8 things for my tea and bubble for ever before. gonna throw those in with my general organics line and see if it buffs up my buds anymore. but id like to get into omri certified. biocanna is available for me here in michigan. all of it. along with natures nectar full line. i plan testing out biocannas 5 bottle series, along with mycro promix, and natures nectar organa add(use always?) and npk adjusters, with hygrozyme, the OGtea, and either subcultures or great white i suppose no experience with any other products of that nature lol. give me a heads up what u think before i can get your line up!
You shouldn’t need to start using the Organa-Add(micros) until late vegetive. Start at 4ml/gal every time you feed. THey may need as much as 8ml/gal during heavy flowering…:-)
alright. i really am intrested in doing a mix up of the natures nectar NPK line, gonna order them here soon after i figure out how to complete it with all additives. with there N-P-K trio and micro additive, i really like the bioweed, bioroot, and calmag from GO, the exact statement for the bioroot is this “Contains non-plant food ingredients: 100% sea kelp derived from Ascophyllum Nodosum” acceptable? bioweed is this statement also..100% sea kelp derived from Ascophyllum Nodosum. i dont understand why they have two products derived from the same thing. help me get away from general organics lol. i run a 2 16 plant flower rooms 4000 watts each, and a large veg room. i work for a 4.5 week harvest cycle and i want to get the MOST i can out of it for my patients since im paying for this high yield situation.. i ordered the humic and fulvics you suggested today (suggested application rates?) = ) along with some OG tea! i cant wait to see what that does for my general organics line alone. also i use hygrozyme as my enzyme, and i guess im gonna stick with subcultures for now for mycro and bacteria root innoculants, any suggestion are great!! thanks kushman again i just cant wait for your line to change this big hassel everyones having!!
OG -Tea will replace subculture. Order yourself some Technaflora Soluable Seaweed(Ascophylum Nodosum) http://www.technaflora.com/indexProduct.php?ID=105
It’s the best on the market. Use it at 1tsp/5gal with every watering. Then increase it to 1tsp/gal and combine it with 10ml/gal of Humboldt Nutrients 0-10-0
http://www.humboldtnutrients.com/blog/bloom-natural/ for a Veganic BLOOM BOOST. Also, because the Soluable seaweed is 1-1-16 you won’t need the Natures Nectar Potassium(K).
When I started out doing veganics I jumped right to the General organic line. There really wasnt much out there but a few online video’s of Kyle and a few blogs. I wouldn’t recommend going that direction even if there is a 25.99 complete grow kit. For one the product is 50% synthetic, and a great second reason is the biomarine smells horrible! In the long run you will have a healthier plants following Kyle’s CANNA Method.
so my last questions are these for now then before i go and grab everything i need from the shop, is this everything to complete my veganniculture grow to its fullest? should i use the whole biocanna vega,flores,rhizo,zyme,boost and use these additives? or should i use this and cut biocanna?
natures nectar N – P singles k not needed because of the seaweed? full n for veg and half n rating for bloom? P for veg and bloom?
Natures nectar organa add micro 2-0-0 (starting heavy veg at 4ml per gallon – upto 8ml a gallon in heavy bloom) say as a foliar feed hows that gonna work in bloom?
technaflora soluable seaweed 1-1-16 ( 1 teaspoon per 5 gallon for all veg? then 1 teaspoon per gallon for bloom? conversion for k ratio ?
humbolt bloom boost 0-10-0 (all of bloom?)
OGtea – (every watering)
safer grows humic acid
bio ag fulvic acid
hygrozyme 8-15ml per gallon.
I would use the Canna line as your base nutrients. Then augment with the Natures Nectar. The Bio-Boost is THE MOST EXPENSIVE product I’ve ever used. And I think it’s worth it. Never have I seen my plant’s metabolism any higher than when using it. Rather than wait until switching to Bio-Bloom, I suggest starting it a week before flipping the lights back at half-strength. Then increase to full strength when you change the photoperiod for flowering.
The conversion for Soluable Seaweed 1-1-16 is approximately 1tsp/gal for full strength…:-)
yeah….bioboost….for me to feed my flowering rooms itll cost me at 15ml a gallon via 2 gallons a week per plant, 32 plants, 9 week flowering period for a full run through. ouch.. 8640ml….thats two of there 5L. thats $850. i cant imagine that its THAT worth it kushman come on. you cant tell us that there isnt an alternative out there! 6720ml minimum. which is 7ls still. 700-850 dollars for a single bloom phase additive isnt reasonable to me lol.
and what do you mean add the biobloom, bioflores? before transition? something like this? biovega/bioflore ratios per week flower. pre flower week 12/4 1wf 12/6 2wf 7/8 3wf 7/12 4wf 0/15 ?
I meant to begin using the BOOST before flowering begins. And, you don’t HAVE to feed it at 15ml/gal. either. Start with 5ml/gal for 2 weeks. Then increase to 10ml/gal for 2 weeks. Then increase to max dosage of 15ml/gal for 2 weeks during heaviest flowering. Then decrease again to 10ml, then 5ml as plants growth begins to slow.
That should take the edge off your spending. while still giving you all the benefits…:-)
alright that will help a bit cutting it down to about 5000ml total. 13 dollars a plant for bud formula isnt tooo bad i suppose lol. also diamond black was used in only two weeks of veg….when should i use these humic and fulvic products? and i hate to ask this but ive got a powder mildew problem due to my dehumidifier breaking for unknown amount of days….luckly manufactures replaced the expensive ass thing but it was in my flowering room that is 5 weeks along…i hear the method ive used harms my plants using neem oil..good suggestion for this ould be great if youve got one to share.
i think i got it now. what about the humic and fulvics u recommended applications rates and weeks? using cannazyme with hygrozyme? and what about rates with OG tea? add to water before nutrients everytime?
anything i should change or add?
jsut saying to get it into the format to fit this screen took me nearly two hours along with finding all the application rates lol. so give me your honest oppinion!!
Looks GREAT! Except you should cut out all nutritive additives at week 7. The seaweed, humboldt bloom, and Organa-Add. Go to half strength of everything else also for week 7. Then flush week 8 and 9. If your’e going into the 10th week drop additives and cut food in half at week 8. Week 6 if you’re finished after 8…:-)
but for the humic and fulvics! im really confused about when to use them! and using the OG with every watering? will do for dropping the micro, seaweed, and bloom after week six. cut to half strength at three weeks before harvest for all others. is it really a benifit for the two week flush? i thought vegan/organics took only a 7-10 day flush? thanks kushman!! i ahve a feeling my next harvest is gonna be a blessed one!!
Hey Kyle have a question if I’m only under 1 600watt Hps can u still augment with nature nectar n&k if I’m maxed out with all my bio canna im at bio vega 15 ml,bio rhizo 10ml, cannazyme 9 ml , 3 drops a gal mineral matrix , 10ml GO cal mg ,10 ml of bioag ful-power and I’m using OG tea every time I’m getting yellowing edges on my leaves and the stems are getting to be a redish purple starting to work to the top of the plant the ph of my soil is now 6.4 i just hit them with 1.5 tsp a gal of natures nectar n & 2.5 tsp of nature nectar k as lable recomended on top of all my other nuites and it doesnt seem like the problem is going away not quite sure what it is I transplanted into manna mix after being in roots organic soil and the soil ph being at 4.8 I’ve been giving it full strength nutes ever since the ph has been in its sweet spot the HELP would be greatly appreciated since u are the master of veganicssss!!!;))
And why does bioag ful-power say its humic acid and other says it fulvic acid I was going to get safe gro humax for humic acid and if bio ag has a straight fulvic acid!!
I am just guessing but I would alternate humic and fulvic acids once a week during flower and begin adding it at week 1 of flower?
give it 2.5ml per gallon of mineral matrix. and gradually increase to 5ml per gallin before the main bloom phase.
Thanks p lux it’s alright to go 2.5 ml a gal with all my other nutrients of mineral matrix so u do think its a micronutrient problem even though I go 3 drops a gallon of mineral matrix… Thanks
A pic would be great but yellowing from the edge of the leaves is usually overfeeding which could lock out other nutrients
i dont know what a drop is considered lol. but as even kyle states above. organa-add is a micronutrient, with a top application rate of 8ml per gallon. he suggest using it at 4ml per gallon at 4weeks of vegative growth and upping to 8ml(possibly) (6ml more likely) when you hit the max growth in flowering. also the go line cal mag is pretty weak i know some guys using it at 15ml per gallon lol. i keep it at around 7.5-12.5 at tops. i would suggest doing the same type of application with your mineral matrix half of its top, then raising to just under to all the way to its highest application (if needed)
and that is with the biocanna line.
Ok Let’s see if I can catch up?
There’s 50 drops in a teaspooon, so 10 drops in a milliliter.
I’m thinking you’re pH is low. I’ve noticed recently that with coco the sweet spot is a little lower, aroun5.8-6. Water a couple times with just tea and zyme pH’ed to 5.8 and see if that helps.
you can and should use the Humic and Fulvic together, every time you feed. I described above how to match the dose with the level of food. If you’re feeding half strength. Use them at half strength of the maximum suggested rate on the label. And soforth.
I hope I got em all. Sorry it took me a couple days. I try to get to questions as fast as i can…:-)
awesome. i deffinatly was persistantly awaiting your reply lol. but for the OGtea? recommended use? and what about any silica or b vitamins or any other additives per vegative or flowering sages you would recommend?
Thanks Kyle my ph was at 6.4 thanks for the advice of going to 5.8-6 with the tea and enzyme the plant is really big should I stick with the mineral matrix at 3 drops a gallon or should I just switch to organa add I personally like the mineral matrix because its veganic if my plant is really big like (mother big) and I’m utilizing co2 and OG tea is it alright to go 2.5 ml a gallon then up to 5 ml a gallon for heaviest flowering for every feeding thanks Kyle!!!
For PL: Use OG-Tea at 1tblsp/gal with every watering through mid-flowering. Then reduce application to once per week…:-)
For V401: I’ve been using the Organa-Add at 4-5ml/gal. from mid-vegetive through mid-flowering. It’s Veganic too. Just doesn’t say so. It’s very similar to Mineral Matrix, just a little weaker. Which I find easier to apply with consistency. If you use Mineral Matrix on a regular basis, keep application between 3-5ml/gal…:-)
Thanks so much man you’ve alwAys been such a big help I’m going to do exactly what u said with just flushing with og tea and Zyme at a ph of 5.8-6.0 thanks so much!!!!!
Hey Kyle are u running almost the same process to make your nutrients as canna did with bio canna I know you said your line is going to be compete unlike the bio canna which( I really love ) I’m just really interested on how they did it with maybe fermentation of plant product this is a subject that is very interesting to me!!! I love veganics??….oh yea when you grew out the OG ghost train haze did you say it almost hit 27%thc when you got it tested I just got a strain tested with your methods and I hit 25.71%thc one the reserva Pravda sour kush aka head band I thank you so much with the knowledge you teached me thank you so much!!!
It makes me so happy to hear about your success V401. Happy to be forming this Veganic Cannaculture Community together.
My experience with the Bio Canna line was invaluable. The fact that they were somewhat incomplete, and needed augmentation forced me to learn what Veganic cultivation had been lacking to that point in time.
I can’t let all of our secrets out just yet. Suffice to say, I’ve now won 4 medals at High Times Medical Cups with my nutes. Three 2nd place wins and one 3rd. If you count the medals Buds and Roses won with extracts and hash that was made with Veganic material we grew with Vegamatrix, the total is 8.
I don’t think the 27% was accurate, and I’m sorry I printed it. A little over exuberance…:-)
I can’t wait for vegamatrix!!!
I can’t wait to make it available. So that everyone can grow the cleanest, safest headdies possible…:-)
does this mean use the OG every watering until mid flowering then cut backl to once a week?
That’s right PL. Add 1tblsp. of OG-Tea to every gallon of water through mid flowering. Then cut back to one application per week through harvest…:-)
Hey Kyle good morning:) I have a question about the product from bioag ful-power? Why on the bottle does it say humic acid? I thought it was a fulvic acid I bought the product and have been using it for a little wial now and I was gonna use it as my fulvic. I was going to use safer-gro humax for my humic acid, I just didn’t want to duplicate amendments of humic. The ful-power is a golden liquid and I know safer-gro’s humax is a dark brown. I know they are both humic acid just the fulvic is a more refined version. If you could help me clearified this subject it would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks
401, its a Cali thing. I talked to the BioAg folks at the maximum yeild expo in Denver last week. They said they have to put fulvic on their lable because of Cali restrictions. It is a fulvic, although they do have a humic powder. Also ran into OG tea and picked up some for half price $20. I couldnt resist. Those guys were awesome and were excited about the cup next month.
It’s true, selling fulvic acid in CA as plant food is illegal. Something to do with lacking proof of efficacy. Believe me, it does work.
What is it? Humic and fulvic acids are derived from the exact same material. Usually leonardite coal. Here’s a link to a story with all the facts: http://www.lawn-care-academy.com/humic-acid.html
Fulvic acid is simply an ultra refined form of humic. that’s why it’s more expensive.
I understand enough to know that humic and fulvic acids assisit in the transport and uptake of nutrients to your plants.
I like to think of it like this. Humic acid is used to help condition your soil/media to freely release nutrients back to the plants. It’s like a molecular grease. Fulvic acid is a much smaller molecule that can actually penetrate root membranes. This helps facilitate the transport and uptake of nutrients directly into the plants roots. Both are essential in Vegan-Organic gardening…:-)
I really truly appreciate this site and the work you been doing I’ve been eating for this site for awial now!!!viva veganic!!!
Kyle you and web is the best people I ever meet in this industry
I appreciate the sentiment. I’ll try to always be here with quick replies to help ya’ grow…:-)
Hey Kyle when u told me to do a flush with the OG tea and Zyme ph’ed at 5.8 cause u think I over did it with the micro nutrients was I suppose to do 1 or 2 watering with the tea and Zyme ph’ed at 5.8 thanks!!:)
Or should I just do the one watering of tea and Zyme at 5.8 then my second water should I give full strength bio Flores I have dime size flowers and my leaves are getting yellow on top and the re taking the nitrogen from the bottom making the leaves yellow to fix the ones on top the help would be muchly apprecate it!!! Thank you
whats the vegan organic stand on sulfates (ie copper,manganese,ferric,potassium, zinc). along with sodium borate, sodium molybdate, and kieserite? and fish emulision or hydrosylate? ive had great luck with iguana juice from AN is why i ask.
and ive actually chosen to run a side by side using bioboost, biobud, and greenfuse. should be intresting. hoping i can beat the cost of bioboost. and i decided to run with ancient earth from AN for humic and fulvics. along with hygrozyme instead of cannazyme, ive got the bloom 0-10-0 and the seaweed 1-1-17 for the blooming stage also but im looking for something to compete against these with for a side by side aswell.
One flush should be enough. Before returning to normal full strength regimen.
I’m OK with small amounts of necessary micro-nutrients in the form of sulfates. Fish emulsion and hydroselate is OUT…:-)
also im curious kyle do you usually keep your plants green until harvest? i usually like to gradually decrease in the eighth week and then flush the whole ninth week. all i gets lots of fading and leafs to pick off. seems like wasted crystals…so keep it green or let em struggle?
the trick is to control WHEN the plants begin to yellow. If you can do that, you’re a master.
I usually wean them with half strength nutrients 2 1/2 weeks from harvest. This is when all other amendments like humic and fulvic acids, seaweed, or anything else nutritive is discontinued.
Then I have 10-14 days of flushing with plain water feeds. Augmented only with enzymes and sometimes a little added carbohydrate for a sweetener…:-)
ah see i just posted in a thread about this same thing so feel free to ignore me there. i also have been custom to dialing down my nutrient after heavy feedings in weeks 5-6 by going from 1.25x-1.5x of nutrient strength to half by the end of the week then i usually use hi-brix from EJ and hygrozyme for week 8 or 9 depending and then flush with phd RO water and wait 3-4 days to cut. i usually harvest around 60-67 days of flowering. though ive had sativas go for 81 days once.
Hey Kyle if you need to add natures nectar nitrogen and potassium on top of the whole bio canna line during mid flower on top of my (0-10-0 and 1-1-16) do I give the nitrogen at 1.5 tsp a gal and the potassium at 2.5 tsp a gal and how far into flower can I use it my top leaves getting yellow I apprecate the help kyle-ganic!!!;) this is one topic that gives me trouble I’m using co2 and you did say if your using vital earth manna mix u need a ph of 5.8-6.0. Thanks man your always a big help!!!!
i wouldnt go to crazy with nitrogen in mid-late flowering you might end up overdosing them, make sure they are actually turning yellow and the HPS isnt playing tricks on you. nitrogen def starts lower in the plant. as for your PH issues i have never phd my water nor my soil. my tap is 8.0 beginning and my mix is always 5.5-6.5 when it goes into the soil using advanced sunshine #4. if you think its an issue check what your waters PH is before you add it to your soil. if its 5.0=> or 8.0=< you could have issues look for an organic PH adjuster i believe there is a thread here on it.
Yes, I agree with PL. Only use the Natures Nectar Nitrogen to enhance the growth in late Vegging, and into the first 2 weeks of flowering.
pH with Manna Mix is best at 6.2 during vegging, and a little lower at 5.8-6.0 for flowering.
I’m just get yellowing on the top of my canopy with rust spots and brown rusting in between the veins of the leafs 1 or 2 nodes down from the top of canopy. I did the flush like you said kyle with Zyme and OG tea ph at 5.9 thats when I was in the end of week 2 .then I gave 1 feeding of 50/50 bio vega and bio Flores at 8 ml a gal each, bio rhizo 2 ml a gal,bio boost 5ml a gal organa add at 5ml a gal, go calmg at 10 ml a gal and my ph of my nutes was 5.9 but my root zone was 6.4 I just need help this one strain always gives me trouble. what should I give as my next feeding I’m in the beginning of week 3 flower the clarification would be a lot of help I was going to give full strength bio Flores, 10ml bio boost ,organa add5 ml a gal, Go cal mg 10ml a gal and natures nectar nitrogen for 1 feeding then the next I was going to hit with my organic bloom booster 0-10-0 and 1-1-16 I just need some help…:((
sounds like magnesium def. you thought you overferted so you flushed, but because you were under feeding it was an adverse effect. stick to your full strength regiment especially since your hitting the critical period of flowering and the problem shouldnt persist to any new leaves. i always end up stepping my nutes upto 1 1/3-1 1/2 the recommended dosage in heavy flowering for most strains being that organics are pretty forgiving compared to chemicals.
Good info PL, Whats Going on VG401~~~;-D No worries broski. Kyle you were right, the flush was perfect. Sometimes it can take a week for the plant to start showing signs of relief from stress, Only bump up your nutrients in mid flower if your plants are healthy and can take it. Every strain is different, some like nutrients and some want barely any nutrients. No matter how perfect our recipes are theres always gonna be a certain lady that isnt as happy as the rest, Kyle calls them persnickety LOL Keep that strain and next round start off on a light nutrient feed schedule, Listen to the plant like Kyle says and make her happy and healthy. The goal is to grow a healthy plant. Double check all your products and read the labels and maybe go online and check there msds info to see if your perhaps doubling up on a few products. Ive never been a huge fan of G.O. Cal mag, its kind of funky ~~~;-D
I say try dropping the Organa-Add and raise the CaMg to 15ml./gal.
Definitely go with 16ml/gal of the Bio-Bloom.
No more Vega or straight nitrogen.
I never asked. How many watts are they under?
More watts need more food. If it’s 2,000 or more, you might even go 20ml. Bio-Bloom.
Let us know how it goes…:-)
It’s under one 600watt light it’s a big momma plant with co2 if I’m going to drop the organa add ,am I still going to use the mineral matrix at 3 drops a gallon I stop using it cause you said that the organa add was weaker at 4-5ml a gallon I apprecate all the help!!
I suggest dropping the micro’s altogether for a week…:-)
K sounds good ill drop the micros and crank the calmg up to 15ml a gal thanks kyle
Hey Kyle when I do start the micros back up in a week which one should I use mineral matrix at 3 drops a gal or organa add at 4-5 ml a gal or do u have a different ml to gal ratio I should use ?thanks some much you, braveheart an the whole team has been big help !!!
Team Kushman ROCKS!!! No problemo VG401, after you do what Kyle says and NO (mineral matrix, organa add) for a week, you really might not need either (mineral matrix, organa add) only use the G.O.cm when using a 600 watt hps. You only want to add more micronutrients in very high yield/wattage situations. If you do add more micro nutrients on top of other micro’s you want to be very careful, go gently or else it will burn your plant, and it starts by doing what you described earlier with the rust spots. I got the same problem when I first started using mineral matrix. I learned the hard way, but they bounced back. I know with mineral matrix your only supposed to use it once every other week at very low doses, haven’t used organa add yet. Send in a pic for Dr. Kushman if you don’t notice any relief after 5-7 days ~~~;-D
Hey braveheart thanks for the help bud!!! On the back of mineral matrix it says you can use it as a supplement to a complete nutrient program, at the rate of 1-3 drops a gallon and organa add says to use 1-2ml a liter wich rounds out to 4-5ml a gal … After the flush i gave them 2 feeding With organa add at 5 ml a gal befor you guy told me to stop using micros(do you think they will be alright) I just started using my organic bloom boosters (0-10-0/1-1-16) I’m gonna give it no micros for a week and bump up the calmg to 15ml I apprecate you helping me understand how a plant matabolizes food thanks braveheart:))
These where the pics I was trying to send about the problem I’m having the top picture is what’s happening more with yellowing of leafs also thanks Kyle and braveheart!!
Heat. To close to the light. Or is this on lower branches if so id say mag, it begins lower in plant. Or its nutrient burm and you need to back of yyour minerals.
Those symptoms initially could look like heat/photo stress from being too close to the light. But I don’t think so. I think it’s a CaMg deficiency. Or possibly a micro-nute overdose. In either case the remedy I suggested should work…:-)
I was push 80 to 85 degrees f when the plant was less then a ft away
That could be it….
Hey thanks for the reply Should I still just use the calmg at 15 ml a gal with the whole bio canna line and organic bloom boosters ([email protected])and humic and fulvic im going into week 4 flower with no micro nutrients since I’m under a 600 watt will the cal mg stop the types of rust spots I’m getting thanks!!:)
As I look at the bottom it is making rust spots on the bottom of plant also
with that being said and a closer look i see upward curling leaves , id be more than sure its heat stress then. back it up and cool it down to something more comfortable like 75 F and hang your thermostat just above your plant tops to be certain. i dont use micros that mineral matrix for my grows they dont seem to be needed with what ive used in the past.
Hey Kyle, I have a question about the product from safer-gro humax. The direction on the back say for house plants apply 1tsp per gallon and apply once a month? And I’m using bio ag ful-power every feed. Am I really only giving it once a month or have you used it more frequent the help would be muchly appreciated!! Thanks:)
You can use the Humax at 1tsp/gal with every watering through week 5 or 6.
Personally, I think your symptoms are a combination of both. A CaMg deficiency exacerbated by the heat stress…:-)
Thanks brotha I apprecate it
DATZ WHY I’M HERE…:-)
Hey Kyle, I have a question about when you twist the bottom of the stalks do you snap them like that on ever branch and do you do that when you start stepping all the nodes thank one love:)
I start with the base of the plant. Move up a couple inches and repeat. On every branch, bottom to top…:-)
Hey Kyle my veg plant are in 2 gallon pots I give R.o water every time to mix my nutrients they are under t-5 I’ve been giving them 8ml bio vega my leafs 1node from the tip of plant is getting a little lighter bettween the veins is that mean I can give a little more food I know u said half nutrient I havnt add any calmg or micros the help is greatly appreciated:))thank you
if the plant hasnt shown this lightness before its likely time to start uping your nutrients slightly…slightly.
You have to be careful about overfeeding in low light gardens. The more light, the faster their metabolism and thus they need more food. I do think you can move up to 12ml of the Bio-Vega. and probably can start adding 5ml of CaMg as well.
Tell me how old and how big they are.
It’s always best if you post a picture. There is a thread at the forum home on how-to if you’re having trouble with that…:-)
Hey Kyle thanks for the response they are all about a month old and 1 1/2 ft -2ft from transplanting rooted clones like I said I’ve been going 6.2 with.ph OG tea,20ml ful-power, 10ml bio rhizo, 9ml cannazyme, 8ml bio vega like I said I use r.o water to mix the tea and nutrients together . Here some pics to tell me what you think thank brotha 😀 thanks
I think it would be safe to up the grow to 10ml. Good job spotting the fading in between the veins of your leaves. If the additional Bio-Vega doesn’t stop the spread, then you need to add some Cal-Mag.
Tell me what soil you’re growing in, and what the pH is of your run-off?
Also, have you pinched or topped them yet? A good idea under low-light situation is to top them several times. This will create more budsites and keep them shorter and bushier…:-)
Hey Kyle thanks for the reply I just hit them tonight with 10ml bio veg and added 5ml calmg my water its r.o water so i know i might nee a little cal mg .so I think ?.the soil I’m growing out of is manna mix from vital earth and ive been keeping my ph of my nutrient solution at 6.2 wial I’m in vegitive. I checked the ph of my soil using the IQ 150 ph probe from specmeters and my soil keeps reading 6.2 I have the other meter u told my to get the field scout direct soil ec probe should I use this too hope to hear from you Kyle and thank again for sharing this wounderful knowledge I’ve look up to you since the high times cannabis cup DVD that came out in 2003 your my idle!!!
Sorry and I did top them once was going to top a couple more time befor flower I just wanted to veg them for 4 more weeks thanks!!
I’ve found that it’s best to use a slightly lower pH with coco based soils. Try pH’ing at 5.8-6.0. Between the two changes I expect your plants to green up nicely…:-)
Hey I transplanted those plant in grow that where having the yellowing bettween the veins I transplanted into manna mix and gave 10 ml bio vega and 5ml GO calmg and ph at 6.2 i already did this before I talked to you and some of the top leafs tips started curling downward. I’m not sure if its because I over feed or the ph is too high Should I just give OG tea at 6.0 because it an over feed of should I stay on 10 ml bio vega, calmg at 5 ml at 5.8-6.0 like I said I transplanted into manna mix that feed 2 days ago I apprecate the help thanks!!!
Probably just a little bit of transplant shock, combined with a high pH. Bring it down to 5.8 and you should be good to go, along with food…:-)
Hey Kyle thanks again with all the help!!!:)) I’ve relized that the only thing I can’t seem to ever dial in is the cal mg?? Im in vegitive growth and I’m about to lower the ph like you said to 5.8-5.9 with the manna mix for my next feeding. like I said I used 10ml bio vega and 5ml go calmg at a ph of 6.2 on the dot just like you said. I know you said you recently found out that coco based medium like a slightly lower sweet spot for ph of 5.8-6.0. I’m still in vegitive growth the calmg problem is still spreading I’m trying to veg them out for a few more weeks. So for my next feeding I’m going to lower the ph to 5.8-5.9. should I keep my bio vega at 10ml a gal and the GO calmg at 5ml a gal I just want the spreding to stop little light bettween the leaf veins ike I said I always have trouble with the cal mg:-/ I apprecate all the love and support brotha I always apprecate it hope to hear from ya thanks man!!
Here’s some pics to help . all the pics are the leafs at the top of my plants like i said i transplanted last feed and there growing at an alarming rate under t-5 i appreciate all the Kyle kushmaster 😀
Everyone on here is such a great help team kushman rocks!!!!
~~~~~~~~~~~;-D YE YE YE YEEEEEEEEEEEHAW!!!! man I haven’t done one of those in awhile
Increase the CaMg to 10ml/gal…:-)
Hey Kyle this question is about stripping the nodes can I still strip the nodes where my fingers are even if there this long and I stop when I get to the tip I’m 2 weeks before I throw in flower I appprecate all the help
Yes, by thinning out the number of flowering nodes you’ll increase your average bud size. your yield will also increase because more of the flowers are receiving direct light…:-)
Kyle are you using any other products in conjuction with your nutrient line now?
Nothing except OG-Tea microbial innocculant…:-)
Hey Kyle have a question do you ever get the little white bugs in you manna mix called Hypoaspis Miles I have a bounch of these white to tan bugs they have antennas and 4 legs with a tear drop body are these the preditorial mites called Hypoaspis Miles I really apprecate the help I just didn’t know if i need to kill these if not and what product if there bad whould kill them thanks brotha!!!:))
Hey VG, hows it going? Honestly I don’t like any type of bug in my indoor garden. But this one is very interesting broski, I did a little research and I like the bugs that Hypoasis Miles eats and it seems that farmers have been using these bugs for years as pest control. I cant wait to hear what Kyle says about these buggers, thanks for the input VG401, very cool info ~~~;-D
No need to kill them….they’re beneficial…:-)
Hey Kyle thanks sooo much long time no hear how u like the new spot bud:)))
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